Metro Orlando Wine Scene

The science of viticulture: Climate and site selection

Thu, 05/17/2012 - 11:08

Quality grapes are a precursor of quality wine and the science of viticulture has developed and evolved with a single goal in mind: the delivery of high-quality wine grapes to the winery.  The quality of wine grapes produced in a specific harvest is not only a function of that year's harvest conditions.  Rather, it is the result of a combination of factors which, together, represent the full scope of viticultural science.  I will cover most of the inherent elements of viticultural science in a series of posts as a part of my investigation of the source of grape-derived odors.

There are three major areas of concern for the viticulturist as he/she sets about the task of delivering quality grapes to the winery door: (i) selecting the site which will best ensure goal attainment; (ii) setting up the vineyard with the appropriate elements such that cost-effective goal-attainment is promoted; and (iii) implementing a cost-effective, repeatable vineyard management regime which is reflective of the operating conditions.  Within these major considerations there are a number of sub-elements where the rubber really meets the road and I will focus our coverage of the topic on these areas beginning with today's writeup on climatic considerations in site selection.


The site selected for a new vineyard will determine the amount and quality of fruit produced, the resources required to manage the vineyard, and, ultimately, the profitability of the vineyard.  Selecting a site for a new vineyard is generally a compromise between a number of factors.  For example, most of the exceptional vineyard sites in the world have been under vine for many a year, leaving less-than-perfect options available for the aspiring vineyard owner.  Second, most prospective vineyard owners are drawn to sites that are readily accessible to them and this limiting facor comes with a given climate.  And so on.  Site selection is thus the process of making an optimal choice within the bounds provided by the available options and associated limiting factors.  The key site-selection factors for consideration are climate and site physical characteristics.

Climate, according to Dr. Tony Wolff (Lecturer and Viticulturist, Virginia Tech) and John D. Boyer, is the average course of weather in a region over an extended period as measured by temperature, precipitation, and wind speed, among other variables (Vineyard Site Selection, Virginia Cooperative Extension).  Weather is itself defined as the state of the atmosphere at a specific point in time using the same variables as referenced in the climate definition above.  the climate of a grape-growing region will determine, to a large extent -- and all things being equal -- both the grape varieties that can be grown and the styles of wine that can be produced.  For example, Syrah appears to flourish in warm climates while Riesling does best in cold.  That is not to say that these varieties cannot be grown outside of these environments; that is to say, however, that varietal typicity is compromised when these varieties are grown outside of their "zones."

As it relates to the wine regions of the world, the ideal climates for vitis vinifera are Mediterranean and marine west-coast climates which are both characterized by mild, wet winters and warm, dry summers.  The mild winters promote long-term survivability of the vines (and increased quality of the juice as the vines age) and the wetness provides a reservoir of water that the vine roots can tap into during the grape maturation cycle.  The warm, dry summers provide the heat and light that are the engines of vegetative and crop growth while keeping at bay the threat of rot and flavor dilution that would accomapny summer/fall rains.

Source:www.buywineonline.co.ukIn viticulture, three separate aspects of climate are normally considered: macro-climate, meso-climate, and micro-climate.  Macro-climate refers to climatic effects over large (hundreds to thousands of miles) geographic areas and are either continental or the aforementioned maritime.  Continental climates are modified by large land masses and are characterized by hot summers and cold winters.  Maritime climates, on the other hand, are modified by proximate large bodies of water which heat up and cool down at a slower rate than does the adjoining land mass.  This scientific fact results in the warming of winter winds as they blow over a warmer body of water and the warming of landside vineyards as the winds make landfall.  This warming could act to extend the growing season and minimize the potential vine impact of winter low-temperature events. On the other side of the coin, warm spring air blowing in over the still-cold water will be cooled down and will retard the development of landside vineyards, minimizing their potential for damage from spring frosts.

Meso-climate covers a much smaller area than does macro-climate and is generally the scale at which site decisions are made.  It is at this level that that the physical aspects of the surroundings -- elevation, slope, aspect -- can temper broader macro-climatic effects.  The climatic effects of these physical elements will be covered when they are discussed individually.

Micro-climate are the conditions that exist in the vineyard from the soil upward into the vine canopy and, as such, is more relevant when the land is under vine than in the site-selection phase.

These then are the broader climatic considerations for the viticulturist in selecting a site for a new vineyard for the production of quality wine grapes.  The physical characteristics that should be evaluated will be covered in the next post on viticultural science


© Wine -- Mise en abyme

Dinner at the Chef's Table at Victoria and Albert's, Orlando

Mon, 05/14/2012 - 21:27

Victoria and Albert's is a modern-American-cuisine-themed restaurant at Disney's Grand Floridian Resort and Spa and before you say what kind of Mickey Mouse stuff is that, let me tell you this was my third trip to the locale and, as in each of the previous times, it was a blast.  The restaurant has impressive credentials: a recipient of the AAA Five Diamond Award, a Four Star rating from Forbes Travel Guide, and Scott Hunnel as Chef de Cuisine.  Chef Hunnel, a champion of fresh, locally produced, seasonal ingredients, is a 5-time James Beard "Best Chef of the South" nominee and was named Santé magazine's Culinary Professional of the Year in 2008.


We had been anticipating this event for a few months because: (i) the V&A Chef's Table is one of the  toughest tickets to snag in Orlando; (ii) of the high esteem in which we hold Chef Hunnel's creations; and (iii) of the lineup of wines we had assembled to accompany the evening's stellar fare.  My table mates for the evening were Ron and Bev Siegel (Ron had snagged the table), Steve and Linda Alcorn, the better half of @thewinebarn, and, of course, the lovely Mrs@wineORL.

We were slated to take our seats at 6:00 pm but,  eager beaver that I was, we arrived at 5:45.  Israel, the  gentle giant that holds sway over the restaurant from his position of Maitre d'Hotel, quickly took charge of my wine bag and gave me the option of going to the table or waiting until the others arrived to go in as a group.  We opted for exploring our surroundings while awaiting the arrival of the others.  Ron and Bev were the next to arrive and the ladies promptly decamped to the bathroom to do whatever women do in bathrooms.  Ron and I stood around waiting for them and telling each other how great the night was going to be; especially with all the "killer" wines that we had brought.

Eventually the ladies emerged from the bathroom and we made our way back into the restaurant from where we were led to the kitchen and to the Chef's table.  The lighting in the restaurant is subdued, as is the tone of conversation, as you wend your way from the restaurant foyer and then you are catapulted into a cacophony of sound and bright lights that are the hallmarks of a working kitchen.


We spent a fair amount of time determining the seating arrangements because we wanted to be able to see the action in the kitchen (only half of us would be facing the kitchen) while also wanting to be in a position where we could discuss the wines without having to speak across bodies.



We began the evening with a 1998 La Grande Dame Champagne bought off the V&A wine list while Ron negotiated the wine-pouring order with Israel.  We followed that bottle with a 2002 Perrier Jouet Belle Epoch Fleur de Champagne Rosé.

We are primarily Bordeaux and Burgundy drinkers and the still wines that we had assembled for the meal reflected that bias:

• 1994 Ramonet Batard-Montrachet
• 2005 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne
• 1964 Château Cheval Blanc
• 1964 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou
• 1964 Château Mouton
• 1964 Domaine René Engel Clos Vougeot
• 1964 Faiveley Latricieres Chambertin
• 1961 Château Ausone
• 1961 Château Lynch-Bages
• 1961 Château Gruaud-Larose
• 1964 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Georges de Latour Private Reserve
• 1958 Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino
• 1975 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou
• 1975 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
• 1988 Penfolds Grange
• 2005 Château Malescot St. Exupéry.

During the Champagne phase of the evening, Chef Hunnel made his first visit to the table to welcome the regulars and to determine if any of us had food allergies that he should be aware of.  He revisited the table at the beginning of each course to tell us about the course and its ingredients.



The dinner proceeded as follows:.




Amuse-Bouche: Soft-poached Quail Egg with Galilee Caviar; Chicken Liver Terrine; Cauliflower Panna Cotta; Porcini Miushroom Cappuccino






Maine Lobster with Herb Aioli and Miniature Greens








Alaskan Salmon with Bamboo Rice and Soy Beans









Herb-Crusted Ocala Rabbit and Sausage with Carrots








Poulet Rouge with Calamarata Pasta, Forest Mushrooms and Black truffles







Minnesota Elk Tenderloin with Braised Red Cabbage Tart



Australian Kobe-style Beef with Garlic Potato Puree









Fiscalini Cheddar, Gouda Reypenaer XO, Colston Bassett Stilton, Parmigiano Reggiano



Blood Orange Timbale with Array of Fruits on a Raspberry Veil






This was an excellent night out.  Watching course after course prepared in front of our eyes and then delivered to our table with pomp and circumstance enough to make a Victorian historian proud, and then to caress our palates with a multiplicity of pleasing flavors, was a food-lover's dream.  The eye-pleasing symmetry of presentation was only outdone by the symmetry of the flavors on the palate.

The wines as a group did not live up to expectations.  There were no standouts and there were a number of out-and-out disappointments.  For example, I had had the 1958 Biondi-Santi on January 13th and at that time described it thusly: Orange peel. Burgundian color and nose. Drying tannins. Light on its feet. Lots of cherry and mushrooms. Acidity. Elongated finish. Awesome fruit structure.  Describing the same wine drunk at V&A, Steve Alcorn used words such as: meat, short on fruit,  and acidic.  I was a mite depressed.

Victoria and Albert's should be on your to-do list.

© Wine -- Mise en abyme